Thursday, October 7, 2010


I often read worried comments about the globalization of wine, formatting the taste of wine because of perceived or actual influence of Robert Parker’s notes and the advice of Michel Rolland.
Well, these comments really diminish the wine world and ignores the views of other critics, some of which are quite close to the believed Parker palate, while others are very distant.
All attempts to prove such a difference in taste, I especially think of François Mauss Grand Jury Européen, have not really succeeded (to my knowledge) to prove that the wines of Pavie, Angelus, Pape Clement, even Valandraud are so different from the supposed European palate in comparison to the established palate of Parker!
Jancis Robinson maintains her own English opinion, Bettane remains French even though he is gaining importance (finally!) in the Asian world, Quarin still has his fans in Switzerland, France and even the U.S., the Wine Spectator has a very different view and I am not even talking about Decanter and all the others. That they all have less influence than Parker, who monopolized power, is a fact, but that critics have no influence on wine producers? I admit that for me, I've never hidden the influence Michel Bettane had on our wine, the joy I had when Quarin or Clive Coates had seen before many, the class of Valandraud 1998, thanks to its large percentage of cabernet franc, etc...
Also in my case, with specific example, Parker and Bettane and René Gabriel gave a huge note at that time to Valandraud 1995.
More than 12 years later, in the remake of the Judgement of Paris organized by the Grand Jury Européen, 2 American wines arrived before Valandraud which arrived on top of Bordeaux with his 3rd place, happily before all the stars, including 1st growths such as Margaux, Latour, Haut Brion, Mouton Rothschild, Lafite Rothschild, Ausone, Cheval Blanc and even Pétrus.
It doesn’t mean that Valandraud is better.
The proof is the classification
The proof is the market price of my famous colleagues.

In any case, it proves that Parker and other critics don’t have such bad taste and that they do not have the assumed responsibility for this globalized American taste. Believing that Parker and Rolland are responsible for this fantasy makes me think that those who make these comments don’t have a clue. These are gossips, to talk, speak, and scare people, as some organic zealots with their sad face, bad hair and depressive character, not to mention their scary cragginess, as for me, I see organic living with happy people, smiling, healthy, the evidence by their attitude that this is the right way.
What’s the point of being organic if it is to go to sad stores where customers all look sick?

Hurrah for light, for children who run and laugh and live fully the pleasures of life.
I got side tracked... back to our topic: Parker-Rolland’s globalization

Parker likes Haut Brion, he likes Lafite Rothschild, he likes the wines from Guigual, Chapoutier (organic, no ?), he likes Valandraud and likes Rayas ! Bizarre no… to label a palate ?
Anyway, if someone wants to kill their dog, just say that it has rabies (French proverb)
Regarding Rolland, it could be worse, if possible.
First, all wines are alike when they’re signed by Rolland, it’s a globalized wine, and that's it.
Really. Go check on Wikipedia the list of his clients and you'll be surprised! I do not know if the list is correct but I just take one example: does Troplong Mondot tastes like its neighbor Pavie? Does Lascombes tastes like Leoville Poyferré? Does Le Pin tastes like Le Gay?
Who can say, write, without being of bad faith that Rolland = all wines taste the same?
Oh, I forgot, does Valandraud tastes like Larmande?

Does anyone serious has at least once tasted blind the wines from Michel Rolland’s properties in the world?
Well, of course, all these wines are not bad, and maybe that’s what is considered Parker-Rolland’s global taste? Shouldn’t we rather have vegetal, acid and raspy taste to remind us the good times?
This extensive a priori might be a good subject for a thesis, Pierre-Marie Chauvin if you read me ...

On another subject – for Parker doesn’t like our whites, fortunately Neal Martin does – here are a few pictures of the harvest of the 2010 Valandraud Blanc for Patrick Essa :

1 comment:

orenden said...

Excuse me, for what you use two-color boxes of grapes