Champagne!

Chateau Valandraud was just promoted 1st Grand Cru Classe B in the new 2012 Saint Emilion classification

Vinum

In the January/February issue of the German magazine Vinum, I read an article written by Barbara Schroeder and Rolf Bichsel on the 2009 futures with nice comments on Valandraud red and white.

For the first time, an article on me, written in German, was included ; I am certain that it was a good piece .

A video of the interview where I talked about my life and the current classification of Saint Emilion, taped at L’Essentiel, was also posted on YouTube.

Jacques Dupont

François Des Ligneris asked me if I had read Jacques Dupont’s book “Le Guide des Vins de Bordeaux”, published by Grasset which I didn’t, that this book does not interest me and that was not on the same wavelength as Jacques Dupont Even if I recognize his talent, he is not a fan of Valandraud and the “Garagist” movement.

Only fools never change their minds.

The other day, when I went to Saint Emilion’s bookstore for the signing of the book on Saint Emilion by Philippe Dufresnoy (Feret Editions), I picked up a copy of Jacques Dupont's book sitting on the shelf... I read the chapter concerning me and was – pleasantly – surprised by the portrait he wrote of me and Valandraud, humorous, smart, sarcastic, well informed and even almost speaking highly about our history, Murielle and my friends. The only problem is he does not like the “garagists”, concentrated wines and boring wines. Maybe we're not so different for, like me, he loves people and stories.

Well… I owe you a thousand excuses Mr. Jacques Dupont, I had taken at face value the words of your friends as well as some of mine who, sometimes, say stupid things
To be forgiven, or try, I will submit my wines to be reviewed. Well, too bad for him!

In his guide, every wine has a small presentation as well as notes already published in the magazine Le Point. The interesting part of this book as the portraits he wrote and which are a bit similar to Bernard Ginestet’s books on Bordeaux.

Here’s a small excerpt from his closing paragraph on Valandraud:
“Should he be included in a future classification, if it still exists, among the classified growths? Of course he should. Great wines are born of similar stories. In the nineteenth century, Ducasse grabbed a piece of Figeac which had fallen very low and that nobody wanted, but if it would have been Thunevin, it would have become Cheval Blanc.”

Praises

I cannot resist sharing with you Gilles Berdin’s lines, who visited us at the beginning of last week:
"A week ago we met and the two wines we tasted are still haunting me. I’ve been talking about them to everyone!
Frankly, it's rare that I react that way as I often have emotions in tastings, but in this case...

While writing down the content of our conversation, I realized that at the time, I didn’t say a word, shocked by this great discovery and then, eureka, I knew:
Blanc de Valandraud 2010 is the revolution of the sun during an unforgettable summer day which began with a soft and silky dawn, a crescendo ending in an explosion of light which finishes subtly its run on an endless twilight. This delicate attack, explosion of fine aromatics mid-palate and long finish make it an e-x-c-e-p-t-i-o-n-a-l wine.
As for the 2009 red, it is simply the little Bacchus in velvet breeches. It was so good! Again I would have much to say but I refrain.

I should not drink such wines because they trigger a nonsensical gibberish that I cannot control. Nevertheless, I hope to find the right angle to share this experience with readers. "

Thanking him for this enthusiastic post, I asked him permission to transcribe his email here: "No problem, you can even mention my name if you feel like it - I must learn to accept my delusions.”
Thank you Gilles.

Guide Quarin des Vins de Bordeaux

I purchased in Saint Emilion’s bookstore Quarin’s Bordeaux wine guide, published by Solar. A big book with 800 pages, a big job with notes, prices, rankings, reviews of 329 wines of Bordeaux.
I started reading about my wines and felt that his classification was not bad, I am happy with the ranking for Valandraud, placed 5th after Cheval Blanc, Ausone, Angelus and Troplong Mondot.
Our responsibility to do better

Regarding his comments, how can I answer but “indeed” to his statement “I did not understand why this change of style from 1999 and the purchase of a cold terroir”.
The answer is simple, in fact, why make it simple when you can make it complicated? The current terroir of Valandraud makes it, in fact, harder to produce “sexy” hedonistic wines; but when it works - and it works: the proof being in 2007, 2008 and 2009 for what I could see - and when it works, in addition to getting some pleasure, it becomes classy. Allow me to make this comparison, a pretty girl with beautiful shapes, but also smart and sparkling... isn’t it what you’re looking for in “doing even better”?
I'm sure you can reconcile the irreconcilable in Bordeaux, sexy and class, hedonism and complexity, power and lightness, in summary: a fine wine.

Baby Bad Boy

First prize for Baby Bad Boy which was included in 12 wines highlighted by “Best value Vin de France”

Thank you Anivin de France and your nice and glamorous logo, like our Baby Bad Boy.

Grains Nobles, suite

Miss Vicky Wine, Anne - Victoire, has plenty of “energy” and a cute little pink duck resting on her shoulder as a mascot. She writes with humor and passion and posted an article (in French) on her blog hosted by the website from the magazine L'Express - it reminded me that they had published a 4 page article about our history on August 14, 1997.

The journalist Georges Dupuy doesn’t know much he helped us at that time: the same week, our notoriety shot up and 3 TV crews showed up, including TF1 who shot a 3 minutes piece for JP Pernaut’s 1 pm newscast! They all had the magazine L'Express in their car...
I thank again this journalist who is still a senior economic correspondent.

Imperial Valandraud 1992

One of my English friend – and client – organized a big dinner to celebrate the birthday of his son born in 1992. He served at the dinner what he considers the best wine of this vintage (1992), which doesn’t have a great reputation, except in Porto and the Napa Valley.
He told me that the Valandraud 1992 imperial being served was the best Bordeaux 1992 he ever drank.

18 years after producing it, Murielle, I and our friends at that time can be proud of this compliment made by one of the greatest wine professional in the World. It’s probably the beginner's luck that made us notice at the time this great wine, still good today, even bottled.

Brazil - San Paulo

Following a flight Hong Kong-Paris with a 5 hour layover in Roissy and then another flight Paris-San Paulo, in other words more than a day of flying time, and 10 hours of time difference, I arrived at the Mercure Hotel in San Paulo then went with our distributor to visit a biodynamic wine fair held in a wonderful setting.
Unfortunate that INAO style glasses don’t show well in hot and humid climate, considering that some of properties belonging to this “club” produce great wines.

The next day, we had lunch at “Churrascaria Vento Haragano”, an incredible barbecue restaurant where carnivorous human beings can eat as much as they want all different kinds of meat: beef, lamb, chicken, pork and even wild boar. It is even possible to eat grilled fish, salmon or tambaqui!
In the evening, I participated in a grand tasting for sommeliers and top clients of our distributor where 18 vintages of Valandraud were presented, from 1992 to 2009, which is still aging in barrels and can prove that it is better than 2010! 8 journalists, the ABS association of Brazilian sommeliers and a dozen clients, plus a few winemakers from Spain (Rioja), Australia, Austria and the members of Casa do Porto, our distributor.

The organization was perfect as well as the comments from Andreas Larsson, best sommelier in the world in 2007

Blanc de Valandraud 2007 : Murielle must have heard the positive comments all the way to Saint Emilion, then in order, from the oldest to the youngest :

Valandraud 1992 simply amazingly harmonious and complex. The best Bordeaux in this difficult vintage. At his top (according to me !)

Valandraud 1993, not so ripe, a classic Bordeaux, unbelievable for a garagist. Still youthful, wait 5 to 10 years to be at its best?

Valandraud 1994 another difficult vintage, perfect wine, rich, full, fat, not as austere as I expected, is becoming very good, probably one of the 2 best wines of the vintage in Bordeaux. Near its peak.

Valandraud 1995 everyone in the microcosm world of wine knows the success of this 1995 vintage, able to be complete, sexy, complex, Right Bank style, with still plenty of years to go. In any case, already so good to drink for the past 10 years. It reached the 1st place for Bordeaux at the Judgment of Paris organized by the Grand Jury Europeen.

Valandraud 1996 almost medoc style, a classic Bordeaux and still nice to drink. One of the best 1996 from the Right Bank, but far from the best Left Bank.

Valandraud 1997 paradoxically more successful than 1996, still a difficult vintage, yet we didn’t have this hype for the vintages of the century. Good wine, very small production because of the strict selection and we were right to do so.

Valandraud 1998 is, without a doubt, still one of the best Bordeaux in this very successful vintage in the Right Bank (less in the Left Bank). 50% Cabernet Franc and 50% Merlot, which makes an interesting Valandraud, but God, this wine is so complex, rich, aromatic and so delicious.

Valandraud 1999 still with aromas of truffles, complete, fat, ready to drink now with a meal. This wine is past its ungrateful stages from this rainy vintage, probably one of the most concentrated wines in this vintage.

Valandraud 2000 perfect wine, exuberant nose, elegance, one of the least concentrated Valandraud, I found it very good, is improving with aging, a very good sign.

Valandraud 2001 much too young, lest taste it again in 10 years, even later.

Valandraud 2002 one of our most concentrated wines, forgotten vintage, superb now in the young wine category, black and silky and with great length.

Valandraud 2003 not a hint of being too old nor stress due to the drought in this fake great vintage where fabulous wines were made (Latour, Cos d’Estournel, Mondotte, etc…). To be revisited in at least 10 years.

Valandraud 2004 Every time I think this vintage begins to open, the wine must be decanted one day in advance and served at a higher temperature. Extreme concentration, to be drunk by anyone with anti-oxidants deficiency!

Valandraud 2005 Finally a pleasurable vintage, one of those great vintage, which can be considered "of the century". Very good, much too young at this stage, concentration, sweetness, complexity, ripe fruits, sweet grapes, a very promising future. Not to be included in a series of classic wine…

Valandraud 2006 The beginning of a change in style. Even more purity, more feminine in this blockbuster, charm and power in this very young wine.

Valandraud 2007 The surprise. So good, even today, with all this work on the wood, ripeness and the fruit are obvious in this vintage which actually provides so much pleasure, despite its reputation.

Valandraud 2008 very classic, made to age (30, even 40 years), it will be a reference wine, however for patient drinkers. A great vintage, A great vintage in the best sense of the word. Rich, concentrated, and yet with fine tannins.

Valandraud 2009 sample taken from a barrel, without a doubt the best Valandraud since we created it in 1991 and that we would have never dreamt of achieving such a beautiful story and such a great 2009, until 2010 confirms that one can never say never!

This wonderful tasting, highly professional was able to convince our Brazilian friends Valandraud’s qualities, even when compared to 1st growths from 1855. May she bring us luck in this long history of the 1st grand cru classé G. .... for garage, of course

Finally, for the first time we presented at a professional tasting, our Fine Bordeaux recently bottled and which, served by Andreas Larsson in appropriate pretty glasses, and after a Viking song before drinking transported the audience in a frenzy worthy of a star.
Thanks Ariel, Pericles, Andreas.

Cars, wine : same thing ?

I had another dream… actually a nightmare.

Everyone in Bordeaux, including of course, the classified growths, those of 1855 and the others, all take good care of their vines: leaf thinning, green harvest, manual harvest, vibrating machines to sort the grapes, the latest destemmer, seed selection, cold, heat, skills, and more....
If all the great terroir do the same, if all the historical crus do the same, how come Valandraud still has a place with the best?
Well it's simple, I am also fortunate to have vines in good terroir, there, no reason to stress. All the comments heard during my early days, made by jealous people proved to be false and those who believed in Valandraud were right!

It makes me think about old cars, unreliable, always breaking down, even those beautiful and expensive ones, such as English ones or those more showy, from Italy, our beautiful Dauphines often seen with their 4 wheels in the air, and fast rusting chrome .
All this was fine at the time, nostalgic today, but if progress has made cars more reliable, there is also globalization of taste. If I believe those nostalgic, yes...... but if I look at what’s available to me: the Mercedes S class is different from Porsche, itself different from BMW, and I do not even mention Citroen and Peugeot!
All those cars are reliable, but they are quite different if you look at them, their interior, when you touch them, smell them, drive them and how they age…

Doesn’t this remind you about wine ? And not those garage ones.

All wines taste the same according to doomsayers, and still, what a difference between Figeac and Cheval Blanc! What a difference between Valandraud, my top cuvee, and Virginie de Valandraud! And still, they come from the same terroir, same technique, same means.

Cars cannot exceed 130 kms/hr on the highways, but after driving 400 kms, you will be in a different state of freshness depending on the car.

Every watch gives you the time, even if anyone can succeed in life even without having a Rolex. I still dream about beautiful luxurious watched such as Zénith, Patek Philippe, Breguet, Audemars Piguet, Richard Mille, Chopard… I don’t know all of them…(and my Seiko still works well !)

Hilarious duo

After co-writing “In Vino Satanas” with Denis Saverot, Benoit Simmat wrote the script for a comic book published by 12bis: “Robert Parker, les sept péchés capiteux” (the seven heady sins) with the subtitle “the anti Parker Guide” .
The foreword is written by... Denis Saverot, managing editor of the Revue du Vin de France.

Well, it always makes an impression to see my face (designed by Philippe Bercovici), my history, my name and Valandraud in a comic book! and as Denis Saverot says, being in the legend.

The themes are quite similar to those of Jonathan Nossiter (the film Mondovino where I also appear) or Elin McCoy, and above all about those fantasies on the standardization of wines and palate. Parkerization, Rollandization ... After all, one only lends to the rich.

Top wines

Excerpt from Lorre White’s blog “the guru of luxury”

10 Of The Top Wines

There's more to wine than two-dollar Night Train. In the mid-'80s, billionaire Malcolm Forbes paid approximately $155,000 at auction for a bottle of wine. The bottle, which was believed to have come from Thomas Jefferson's own collection and dated back to 1787, was then put on display under strong lights and at the wrong angle. These conditions eventually made the cork fall into the bottle, and the wine lost its value and was thrown away.Yes, it's true that you don't have to pay a fortune for a bottle of wine, but keep in mind that you usually get what you pay for. If you really want to impress that special lady, show her your cellar of fine wines -- or at least display your knowledge of them. Read on to discover the ten most expensive wines available on the market. Note that all prices are in US dollars and were evaluated on the basis of a 750 ml bottle from a retailer.

Number 10

Chateau Lafite Rothschild Pauillac 1996 - app. $287

Talk about being at the right place at the right time. In the mid-18th century, a French politician was about to be shipped off overseas, but not before visiting a physician. The doctor prescribed him some Lafite wine as a tonic. This politician enjoyed it so much that he offered some bottles to King Louis XV, and before long this wine became the star of Versailles and was dubbed "the King's wine." Remarkably dark, it sports mineral aromas of mint and black currant. Flavorful, its texture is silky and lingers in the mouth.

Number 9

Chateau Margaux 1995 - app. $402

Its color is almost black, yet it couldn't taste farther from ink. Containing passionate fragrances of blackberry and cassis, this smooth and racy vintage is powerful but still manages to be compact in its fruit structure. This vineyard goes back a thousand years and it has definitely mastered the art. The 1995 vintage recalls the 1986 for its complexity but it's also a good reminder of the 1990 for its elegance. The 1994 version is also quite expensive.

Number 8

Chateau Haut Brion Pessac-Lognan 1982 - app. $528

What distinguishes Haut Brion is the fact that it produced the oldest Bordeaux in the world. Founded in 1550, Jean de Pontac built everything from the ground up for the sole purpose of winemaking. Soon after, he opened a tavern in London to serve his wine exclusively. It was an undeniable success. This red 1982 vintage is still youthful and quite spectacular, holding its own against the best wines in the world. It has matured well with time but isn't expected to improve in years to come. So drink it soon!

Number 7

Chateau Mouton Rothschild Pauillac 1986 - app. $592

Remember the Lafite Rothschild? The Chateau Mouton originated from the English branch of the same family in the mid-19th century. They were the first to launch special labels designed by famous artists such as Chagall, Picasso and Warhol after World War II. Selected as one of the top ten wines of 1986 by Wine Spectator magazine, this Chateau Mouton will recall memories of chocolate, raspberries and spices. This palatable vintage leaves an incredibly elongated aftertaste.

Number 6

Chateau La Mondotte Saint-Emilion 1996 - app. $608

La Mondotte was purchased by the Neipperg family at the same time that they bought Chateau Canon-La-Gaffelire and Clos de l'Oratoire. Therefore, this tiny vineyard of little more than 11 acres was condemned to play second fiddle for a number of years. But in 1996, La Mondotte reached maturity and exploded on the wine scene. Fairly fruity and exotic, this vintage is lavish and has a lengthy finish. It is often compared to Le Pin.Wait, have another glass.

Number 5

Chateau Valandraud Saint-Emilion 1995 - app. $668

This vineyard is one of the most important of the garage wines. Basically, it is to wine what microbreweries are to beer. Like La Mondotte, it occupies a small patch of land and its owners pour their artistic hearts into it. Valandraud comprises approximately 10 small parcels of land totaling 35 acres. This wine has been made with care and is quite rare, hence the price. Firm tannins define its rich and spicy structure; it is bolder than later vintages.

Number 4

Chateau Latour Pauillac 1990 - app. $774

Chateau Latour is one of the most reliable vineyards in France and produces one of the best three Pauillac on the market. This reliable wine draws its power from the rich soil on which the grapes grow. Among the raciest wines of the Medoc region, Wine Spectator selected it as the single best wine of 1993, bestowing on it a perfect score. An everlasting finale is the masterstroke of this vintage, which favors caramel, chocolate, licorice, dark cherry, and roasted fruits. The mouth is opulent and wholly composed. The 1994 vintage is also highly sought after.

Number 3

Chateau Le Pin Pomerol 1999 - app. $908

The Thienpont family's Chteau Le Pin venture is another garage wine. In an average year, they produce about 6,000 bottles of this fine Pomerol on five acres of land. It is truly one of the most illustrious wines to come out of Bordeaux. Its fullness comes from the downy levels of mocha, black cherry and currant flavors. It's a favorite of serious wine collectors.

Number 2

Petrus Pomerol 1998 - app. $1,459

This Merlot was one of the favorite wines at the White House during the Kennedy years. The official name is Chateau Petrus but even its label refers to it as simply "Petrus." The grapes are usually harvested early and left to mature slowly. Extremely fruity, suggestions of berries, vanilla, mocha, and oak emanate from its rich purple robe. The finish is something to wait for as it caresses the palate. A truly exquisite vintage, it should reach maturity after the year 2012.

Number 1

Dom. Romane Conti 1997 - app. $1,540

This French red Burgundy smells of berries spices and leather. Dark in color, it hints at flavors of soy sauce, flowers and licorice. The aroma is rich and penetrating without being too profound. The Romane Conti is a rare wine that has carved a niche for itself along the years. At over fifteen hundred dollars a bottle, it no longer has anything to prove. Consistently, the Romane Conti fetches prices around the thousand dollar mark no matter the vintage.

ps: prices

You should take note that the wine market has many intermediaries that have a direct effect on prices. Importers, wholesalers and retailers are all out to make a profit, so prices may vary depending on the level at which you get involved. Also, auctions often get out of hand and may entail heavier prices.
From AskMen.com

Gentelmanclassiccar.com

2 visits and a lunch with a small group gathered for the occasion, two journalists, from Russia and France, and a few friends, amateurs of vintage cars.

Gentleman Classic Car (in French) was founded by a vintage car lover, Bruno Richet, who decided to turn his passion into his carrier: renting vintage cars and organize visits of chateaux with the help of Serge Tchekov.
Check-out his site to see the cars he rents as well as his prices which don’t seem to be too expensive, considering the pleasure and privilege to drive one of these cars, which, certainly have a story to tell.
In any case, is there anything more obvious than pairing the Gentleman Classic Car to garage wine?
This gives our (real) garage in Saint Emilion the opportunity to have a second life and for us to received potential customers who like and buy our wines.

Mauvais petit garçon : Spare the rod and spoil the child ?

This is not really a right of reply, but hey, I am only reacting to a comment made on Baby Bad Boy by a demanding and rebellious young man (permanent ?)

1/ Merlot noir
Merlot blanc does exist. 176 hectares (435 acres) Still exist, if I believe Wikipedia. I saw a few vine stocks in my property of Badon in Saint Emilion.
There are no merlot rosé except by bleeding or direct pressing.

2/ Different varietals, but where ?
Domaine de Trevallon
a/ I quote Michel Bettane or Thierry Desseauve : Trevallon was denied the appellation for their vineyard has too many Cabernet Sauvignons (forbidden by regulations). Nevertheless, it remains a highly regarded cru from Provence, etc… 2 stars in the RVF guide in 2009.
b/ Hervé Bizeul’s Cabernet Francs are not anything either, and yet it's hot in the Roussillon.

3/ My name is indecent and should be forbidden. It contains thune (slang for money) and vin (wine). Should I request a name change?

4/ 75 hecto/hectare (4.17 tons per acre), is not the style of the house, but why not if it is good ? As it is allowed in the new Vin de France category. In our case, 50 hecto/hectare (2.8 tons/acre) in Bordeaux and less than 30 (1.67) in the Roussillon and the possibility to increase the value of hard to sell wines, thanks to marketing (a bad word, perhaps…)

5/ 10 Euros retail is, in fact, already a sum : 6500 old Francs. I don’t know how to count in old pennies…
The least expensive wines sold by my wholesale business are being offered for 6 Euros (including VAT) in my retail stores in Saint Emilion. And they are very good, in my opinion, of course… No one is obliged to buy some and often, customers have the opportunity to taste what they buy.

Baby Bad Boy, Vin de France

Stéphane Toutoundji posted on his blog his opinion (in French), “ça bouge !!! ” (change) , which I share 100 %.
The new brand “vin de France” and the results, useful in France, of this Australian study on the gap between the palate of wine professionals and… consumers!

The creation of Baby Bad Boy 2009 was based on simple criteria: the palate of young consumers looking for fruit and softness and a blend of several varietals possible in the “Vins de France” appellation, with 70% Merlot and 30% Grenache (a sort of Bordeaux hermitage )
The consumer price in France will be 10 Euros and around $20 in the US (?) and will be available in October 2010.
The vinification was made with the help of Claude Gros and the bottling done in Maury by Jean Roger Calvet.

Flashback

Still regarding Robert Parkers tasting notes and revised notes for the 2000 vintage, and since Patrick wrote about it in one of his comments: Gracia 2000 increased from 93 to 96.

"This is a big upgrade for this spectacular micro-cuvee, a true garage wine from a 4.4-acre vineyard. A blend of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc, I always find Gracia to be reminiscent of Ausone. The dense, rich 2000 reveals notes of a spring flower garden intermixed with smoky barbecue meat, blackberries, black currants, and crushed rocks. The extraordinary perfume is followed by a wine of great depth and richness, full-bodied power, and not a hard edge to be found. This velvety blockbuster is just beginning to strut all its stuff, and should age easily for another 15+ years. "RP

Unfortunately, I ran out of it a long time ago....

I also recommend to read on Wall Street Journal’s site, an article written by Will Lyons revisiting terroir and garagistes ...

3 regular readers

Back to Porsche

Las week, I wrote about the visit at Valandraud by the mid-Atlantic Porsche club. This is what the garage looked like:

Japan

Below are some articles published between November and December 2009 in the Japanese media. I just want to thank my Japanese friends and show that Valandraud-Thunevin and Japan, has been a love story for more 15 years ... and if the garage Valandraud has become a Cinderella Wine and a cult wine, it is thanks to these media, journalists, retailers, restaurants, wine bars and customers I visit each year, once or twice a year, between promotional tours, contacts in Tokyo, Osaka, etc ....
And in the last years, the futures tastings organized at my recommendation with 2 colleagues and Bordeaux wine merchants as well as chateaux agreeing to be represented, have created a trend and helped us becoming an important brand.

Bad temper

François Mauss wants me to believe that he has to be “cautious” when saying good things about Valandraud because of my “bad” temper ; and this seems true when I read his last comments posted on the blog of the Grand Jury Europeen or during his last dinner in the famous restaurant Laurent in Paris, where the wines were tasted blind and Valandraud surprised by its finesse, structure, complexity and softness.

Don’t exaggerate Mister François Mauss!

Oh yes, I have 2 things to ad : I have to preserve my reputation and over the years it becomes harder and harder! Why are you surprised, especially you who, almost every time with the Grand Jury Européen, place Valandraud at the top, I also believe that if we compiled an average of all your tastings, Valandraud would be ranked in the top 5?
In fact, the strength of the image conveyed (garage wine requires ...) by Valandraud which, young, is often closed, clumsy, but if drank at the right temperature and decanted if too young, drunk after about 10 years, rarely disappoints, at least blind. So thank you for your tastings to help me again and again confirm the status of the Valandraud to evil minds and other miscreants.
The 2nd point is, which vintage Valandraud was drunk? because the photo is not sharp enough to identify the year even though I know this is a wine prior to 2003. Afraid to be 2001?
Thank you Francois, I am still not jaded by your compliments.