Monday, November 26, 2007

Biocons, the sequel...

This word “Bio-cons” (organic worshippers), invented by Michel Bettane, like the word “garagiste” he also invented, is able to get plenty of attention. A word which brings up so many questions, comments and opinion, is a bit like Nossiter. I don’t agree with his point of view but find it useful.

I have to justify myself (probably due to my catholic upbringing), so I would like to make it clear that I was mainly giving my opinion on Nossiter – who I got to know a little having the pleasure of being included in his film “Mondovino” and where I was not too much made into a caricature.

I am only interested, and people who know my hypochondriac side will agree, in “good” organic winemakers who make an effort to produce good wines from grapes grown with no or minimal use of chemical product as opposed to the rest of the so-called “normal” production. I was sufficiently influenced by Maryse Barre when she was in charge of Pavie Macquin. I even tried biodynamic agriculture 2 years in a row in my vineyards with the help of Cyril Chancelier or a consultant in the Roussillon. I still carry inventory of biodynamic wines produced for me (Jacques Blanc, cuvée l’Apogée). These wines are good, even delicious to drink and I only regret not having continued on creating them.

If Didier Michaud understood in this word “biocons” (organic asshole), I believe that he didn’t quite understand Michel Bettane. It’s his right, but apparently, my understanding is different from my colleague. This term “bio-con”, it seems to me, concerns grains and granolas or producers of bad wines for they are too sectarian. It doesn’t concern winemakers who have mastered the technique and produce wines I drink with pleasure like the wines of Anne Leflaive or Pontet Canet. Like “garagiste”, the word “biocon” is only intended to the winemakers it concerns.

Sunday, I received a journalist who likes old style wines, a bit of red pepper, not too dark. It is good that some people think differently, even if I prefer the opposite.

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